|A meal at Angus Club: thick-cut poterhouse steak, hash browns, mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, and peas & onions.|
"Pretty much," he said, grinning.
|The first-floor dining room (photo courtesy of Angus Club)|
Instead, Executive Chef Edward Avduli not-so-daintily serves up massive porterhouse steaks on sizzling-hot platters, ample dishes of buttery hash browns and classic steakhouse creamed spinach.
The result is a restaurant that, in my view, should be more appealing than most of its peers, both to a diner looking for a special meal and to the Midtown business community, which I expect will make up much of its clientele. It has the chops to impress the steak-lover (excuse the pun) and the elegance suitable to entertaining clients or a date.
|Giant slabs of Canadian bacon, soft enough to cut with a butter knife|
|Fried calamari with romesco|
The other appetizer highlight was the fried calamari, which was tender and crisp, not at all chewy, and fried to a nice golden brown. It was served on a giant platter with a few lemon wedges and some romesco sauce. A little heavy as a prelude to a giant steak, perhaps, but with a crowd I'd drop an order or two on the table. It wouldn't be bad as a bar snack over a few glasses of wine after work, either.
Maslinka had not been planning to serve us the steak-for-two, but in our pre-meal banter we had agreed that the porterhouse is the true test of a great steakhouse. When small saucers were placed upside down on the table for tilting platters, I knew he had changed his mind, and that good things were in store.
|Porterhouse Steak for Two|
|Classic buttery hash browns|
Accompaniments arrived. The classic steakhouse hash browns were buttery and delicious, with a crisp sear on one side and perhaps a bit too much salt (something I did not think was possible ). A side dish of peas and onions was a surprising highlight: it was tangy, savory and sweet. Creamed spinach was nice and smooth, and although we were told there was no actual cream, I am pretty sure they just substituted butter. Why not.
Desserts were your standard steakhouse fare: chocolate cake, cheesecake, creme brulee, key lime pie. All were competent and tasty but not particularly interesting. The standout was a coconut tiramisu, which was light and moist and flavorful. That would be my pick if somehow you have any room left after the steak.
Angus Club Steakhouse
135 East 55th Street
Tel. (212) 588-1585
Disclaimer: My meal was paid-for as part of an organized press dinner. The opinions expressed in this review are my own. No restaurant is ever promised a positive review.