A Taste" will present single dishes from New York's food world that we think are noteworthy. We hope to provide some leads on NYC's restaurant scene and inspire some great meals.
Marea is the flagship restaurant of star chef Michael White. Devoted to Italian seafood, the restaurant really shines in the pasta courses. One of my favorites is spaghetti with crab and sea urchin, in which the sea urchin melts to create a smooth and creamy sauce. Another is this dish of fusilli with octopus and bone marrow.
The dish is truly decadent. The octopus is braised in red Sangiovese wine, tomatoes, garlic, and basil until it has a wonderful texture, devoid of all chewiness, and the sauce takes on an intensified flavor. Bone marrow is then sauteed with garlic and thyme used to emulsify the sauce for richness. The long coils of homemade pasta are cooked perfectly al dente, with more bite than we are used to finding at most New York Italian restaurants. Finally, the whole thing is topped with homemade toasted bread crumbs infused with garlic, chilies, parsley, and olive oil, rounding out the dish with an excellent crunch.
It sure is hard to find a better pasta dish.
240 Central Park South
Tel. (212) 582-5100
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